This guide compares artificial grass, natural sod, and real grass for yards in the Truckee Meadows, where summer heat and winter snow make lawn care a genuine challenge. Whether you are deciding between a living lawn and synthetic turf, wondering which artificial grass product suits your yard, or trying to understand what installers mean by face weight and pile height, this page gives you the facts and the vocabulary to make an informed choice.
The guide is written for homeowners in Reno and surrounding areas who are facing a dead or failing lawn, a muddy dog area, or a yard that needs to perform for an event or a move. It explains what each option costs up front and over time, how each handles full sun and heavy use, and what questions to ask before you hire a turf installation company.
Turf vs Artificial Grass: Is There a Difference?
The word turf causes confusion because it can mean either natural sod (living grass rolled and laid) or synthetic turf (manufactured grass laid over a base). In everyday conversation, artificial grass, synthetic turf, and artificial turf all refer to the same synthetic product. To avoid mixing them up, this guide uses turf to mean synthetic, sod to mean natural grass, and real grass or natural lawn to mean grass grown from seed or sod in your yard.
Synthetic turf and natural sod are built for different purposes. Landscape artificial grass is designed to look natural and feel soft underfoot, with a longer pile height and a balance between appearance and durability. Sports turf and putting green turf are engineered for performance, with shorter, denser piles, higher face weights, and infill systems that support play or putt consistency. The right product depends on whether you want a lawn that looks like grass, a surface for dogs or children, a putting green, or a durable area around a pool or patio. A spec sheet tells you which you are getting.
Artificial Grass vs Real Grass in Reno: An Honest Comparison
In the high desert climate of the Truckee Meadows, a natural lawn demands steady water through July and August when daytime temperatures reach the low 90s and humidity drops to single digits. Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, the standard lawn grasses in Reno yards, go dormant and brown under this stress, and they freeze hard through winter. A real lawn also requires regular mowing, fertilizer, weed control, and aeration to stay healthy. The payoff is a living landscape that greens up in spring, supports native insects and birds, and feels soft in bare feet. If you enjoy lawn care and your yard has afternoon shade from a cottonwood or elm, a healthy natural lawn is often the better choice and costs less up front.
Artificial grass is low-maintenance, not maintenance-free. It needs regular rinsing to remove dust and pollen, occasional brushing to keep the pile upright, and infill top-ups every few years as material settles or is displaced by foot traffic and weather. It does not brown out in summer heat or freeze in winter, and it tolerates full sun, heavy dog traffic, and constant use without thinning or bare patches. The tradeoff is appearance: even high-quality synthetic turf does not change colour with the seasons, and the pile can flatten over time. Artificial grass costs more to install but requires less water and no fertilizer, mowing, or weed control. On a south-facing yard that has never held a lawn, around a dog run, or where water conservation matters, artificial grass is the practical answer.
Dogs and children wear both surfaces differently. Real grass gets torn up and muddy under heavy paw traffic or play, and urine burns it brown. Artificial grass handles constant dog use without degradation, though urine and waste require rinsing and periodic odor treatment to stay fresh. Children play safely on both, though artificial grass does not turn to mud after rain and is ready for use immediately. Real grass offers the sensory experience of a living yard; artificial grass offers durability and year-round appearance.
Turf vs Sod: When Natural Sod Is the Better Answer
Natural sod is the better choice in three common situations. First, if your yard sits in real afternoon shade from a large tree, a natural lawn can thrive and will look more natural than artificial grass in a shaded setting. Second, if you are working with a tight budget, sod costs less to install than quality artificial turf, though it will require ongoing care and watering. Third, if your HOA requires living grass in the front yard, sod is the only option that will pass approval, and artificial turf may be restricted or prohibited. If you enjoy lawn care and have the water to support it, sod is a reasonable choice.
Artificial grass wins on full-sun yards that have never held a lawn, on dog runs and pet areas, and where water use is a concern. It also wins on slopes, in areas with poor drainage, and around pools and patios where durability and low maintenance matter more than a living landscape. We install artificial grass and do not install natural sod. If a homeowner's yard and situation genuinely call for sod, we will say so. Telling someone that sod is the better answer is part of giving honest advice, even though it means we do not get the job. If you are considering sod, contact a local landscape company that specializes in irrigation and sod installation; they can assess your shade, soil, and water situation and set up a maintenance schedule.
Polyethylene vs Nylon vs Polypropylene Artificial Grass
Polyethylene is the standard fibre for landscape artificial grass. It is soft to the touch, bends easily to mimic natural grass movement, and has a natural appearance in green tones. Polyethylene holds colour well and resists UV fading. It is the most common fibre in mid-range and premium landscape products, and it is the right choice for most residential yards, patios, and pool surrounds. Polyethylene is less heat-resistant than nylon, so in full sun it can soften and flatten more readily, though quality products are engineered to handle desert heat.
Nylon is the most resilient and heat-tolerant fibre. It resists crushing, stands up to heavy traffic, and holds its pile longer than polyethylene. Nylon is stiffer and less soft underfoot, which is why it is used on putting greens, sports fields, and high-traffic commercial areas where durability and consistency matter more than a soft feel. Nylon products are usually more expensive than polyethylene. They are the right choice for gyms, playgrounds rated for heavy use, and putting greens where pile consistency affects performance.
Polypropylene is the budget fibre. It is less durable than polyethylene or nylon, crushes more easily under traffic, and fades faster in UV light. Polypropylene is common in very cheap roll products sold by the foot at big-box stores. While polypropylene can work for light-use areas like balconies or temporary installations, it is not recommended for yards, dog areas, or any space with regular foot traffic. When you see an unusually low price per square foot, polypropylene is often the reason.
Face Weight, Pile Height, Thatch and Backing: Reading a Turf Spec
Face weight is measured in ounces per square yard and tells you how much fibre is packed into the turf. A higher face weight means more fibre, which usually means the turf will resist flattening and last longer under traffic. A typical landscape product runs 50 to 80 ounces per square yard; putting greens and sports turf run 100 ounces or higher. Face weight alone does not tell you everything, because a 60-ounce polyethylene product can outperform a 55-ounce nylon product depending on fibre type and pile height, but it is a useful number to compare products with the same fibre type.
Pile height is the length of the grass blade, measured in inches. Short piles (under 0.75 inches) are used on putting greens and pet turf because they resist matting and make cleaning easier. Medium piles (0.75 to 1.5 inches) are common on landscape grass and offer a balance between appearance and durability. Longer piles (1.5 to 2.5 inches or more) look lusher and feel softer but flatten more easily under traffic and are harder to clean. The right pile height depends on use: a dog run needs short pile, a lawn needs medium pile, and a visual accent or low-traffic area can carry longer pile.
Thatch is the curly, textured under-layer beneath the blade pile. It props the blades up, hides wear and compaction, and gives the turf a more natural appearance. Turf with a thatch layer typically looks better and lasts longer than turf without one, especially in high-traffic areas. Ask whether the product includes a thatch layer and what it is made of.
Backing determines how water drains through the turf. Latex backing is common and affordable but may slow drainage. Polyurethane backing is more durable and drains faster. Perforated backing has small holes that allow water through; fully permeable backing allows water through the entire backing surface. Permeability is sometimes stated in gallons per hour per square foot. For dog areas and places where drainage matters, ask for a fully permeable or well-perforated backing. Ask for these numbers in writing, and compare them across quotes.
The Best Artificial Grass for Dogs, Kids, Putting and Pools
For dog runs and pet areas, choose a short, dense pile (0.5 to 0.75 inches) that resists matting and is easy to rinse and brush clean. The backing must be fully permeable or well-perforated so urine drains through quickly rather than pooling. Infill should include an antimicrobial material such as zeolite or a coated infill system like Envirofill that breaks down odor-causing bacteria. See Pet Turf & Dog Run Installation for details on design and drainage for pet areas.
For children's play areas and playgrounds, softness and impact protection are priorities. The turf pile should be medium to long (1 to 1.5 inches or more), and the base must include shock-absorbing padding rated to the fall height of any equipment. Ask for padding that meets ASTM F1292 standards for the height of your play structures. See Playground & School Turf for specifications and safety standards.
For putting greens, use dedicated putting turf, not landscape grass. Putting turf has a short, dense, consistent pile (typically 0.375 to 0.5 inches) and a high face weight so the ball rolls predictably. The base must be shaped and compacted precisely to create proper slope and drainage. See Putting Green Installation for design and base specifications.
For pool surrounds, heat management and drainage are critical. Choose a light-coloured product rated for heat, use cooling infill if the area gets full afternoon sun, and ensure the backing is fully permeable so water drains away from the pool structure. See Pool Surround Turf for specifications and installation around pool decks and patios.
How to Choose, and What to Get in Writing
Before you compare quotes, get the details in writing. Ask the turf installation company for the turf product name, fibre type (polyethylene, nylon, or polypropylene), face weight in ounces per square yard, and pile height in inches. Ask what infill will be used and how many pounds per square foot will be applied. Ask how deep the base will be, what material it will be made of (usually crushed stone or recycled asphalt), and how it will be compacted. Ask whether a weed barrier will be installed and how seams will be sealed or joined. Request a certificate of insurance showing general liability and workers' compensation coverage. Compare quotes on the same written spec, not on price alone. A very low price often signals a thinner base, cheaper infill, or a lower face weight.
Get a free on-site measurement before you commit. The installer should visit your yard, assess sun exposure, drainage, and slope, and discuss which product and base depth make sense for your use. See the pricing page for typical ranges and to request a free estimate. Call Reno Turf Installation at (775) 993-3807 to discuss your yard and get a written spec and quote. We are fully insured and will name the product, face weight, pile height, infill, and base depth in writing so you know exactly what you are paying for.