Artificial grass in Reno and the surrounding Truckee Meadows depends entirely on what lies beneath it. The infill, base preparation, and drainage system determine whether your turf will last a decade or fail in two years, whether it will smell after rain or stay fresh, and whether it will settle into dips or stay level underfoot. This guide walks you through each layer of a proper installation, from soil excavation through compaction, infill selection, and the finishing details that separate a real turf installer from one that lays material on bare dirt and leaves. Whether you are converting a lawn that burns out every July, installing a pet area that turns to mud, or preparing a putting green or pool surround, understanding what goes under the turf will help you ask the right questions and spot shortcuts.
The Truckee Meadows sits in a high desert valley at about 4,500 feet, with alkaline clay and rocky decomposed-granite soils that do not drain naturally. Cold winters bring snow and hard freezes; hot dry summers bring wind and intense sun. These conditions shape every choice in base prep and infill. This guide is written for Reno homeowners and property owners who want to know how artificial grass installations actually work, what materials do what, and what to demand in writing before work begins.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the loose material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves four critical functions: it props up the grass fibres so they stand upright and look natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf stays in place in wind, and it helps water drain through the system. Different infill types suit different uses, and understanding the options helps you choose the right product for your yard.
Silica sand is the baseline infill. It is inexpensive, widely available, and effective as a ballast and UV shield. Silica sand is angular and relatively coarse, which means it does not compact as easily as other materials and holds its place well under foot traffic. It is commonly used in residential installations where cost and durability matter. The main drawback is that it does nothing to address pet odor, and it can feel gritty underfoot in high-traffic areas.
Coated sand improves on silica by rounding the grains and often adding a thin polymer or mineral coating. Rounded grains compact slightly less, feel softer underfoot, and are gentler on infill distribution during play. Coated sand is available in various colors and can be blended to match the turf blade color for a more finished look. It performs the same ballast and UV functions as silica but offers a more refined surface feel, particularly in residential yards and play areas.
Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odor-causing compounds. It is often blended with sand or used as a partial infill layer to help manage pet urine smell. Zeolite does not eliminate odor on its own, but it reduces how quickly odor builds up in the turf and can extend the time between cleaning cycles. It is heavier than sand and more expensive, so it is typically used in pet areas, dog runs, and yards where odor management is a priority.
Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills are engineered products designed to inhibit bacterial growth and reduce surface temperature. Materials such as Envirofill are examples of this category. These products combine a base material (usually sand or zeolite) with a mineral or polymer coating that has antimicrobial properties and can lower turf surface temperature by several degrees compared to standard silica. They are more expensive than basic sand but are valuable in pet areas, playgrounds, and yards where heat or odor is a concern. No infill is safe when installed correctly or low-odor in an absolute sense, but lead-free materials that meet Consumer Product Safety Commission limits are standard in residential infill products.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire rubber) is used primarily in sports fields and athletic courts where shock absorption and consistent ball response are essential. It is not recommended for residential yards, pet areas, or play areas where children spend time close to the surface, and it is not commonly specified for Reno installations except in professional sports applications. Crumb rubber also retains heat and can become very hot in direct sun.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight, measured in pounds per square foot (psf). The amount varies depending on the turf product, pile height, and intended use. A typical residential installation uses between 1.5 and 3 pounds per square foot, with pet areas and play spaces sometimes requiring slightly more. The infill amount is not a detail to guess at or to let an installer choose without documentation. It should be written into your specification before work begins.
Why does the amount matter? Too little infill means the grass fibres do not stand upright, the backing is exposed to UV light and degrades faster, and the turf compacts unevenly under foot traffic. You will see matting, color fading, and premature wear. Too much infill is wasteful and can make the turf feel heavy and unnatural underfoot. The right amount, compacted correctly, keeps the fibres erect, distributes your weight evenly, and protects the backing for the life of the installation. Specifying infill by weight is one of the clearest ways to verify that an installer is doing the job properly. Many cheap installations cut corners by using less infill than the product requires, banking on the fact that most homeowners do not ask for the figure in writing.
When you get a proposal or specification from a turf installer, ask for the infill weight in pounds per square foot and ask for it to be written down. Ask what infill type is being used. If an installer cannot or will not give you this number, that is a red flag. A professional turf company will know the infill requirements for the product they are installing and will include it in the written spec. If you are comparing proposals, infill weight is one of the most important line items to compare.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layer under the turf is as important as the turf itself. Water has to move through and away from the system, or it will pool, smell, and eventually damage the backing. The process of preparing the ground starts with removing what was there before, then building a stable, draining base.
Start by removing the existing lawn or old turf. If you have a natural grass lawn that has died or turned to dust, or old artificial turf that is lifting or melting, it all has to come out. This includes the root system of the old lawn. Roots left behind will eventually decompose, creating voids that cause the new turf to settle unevenly. The excavation depth depends on the existing conditions, but typically one to two inches of material is removed along with the roots and debris.
After removal, excavate and grade the site. The ground should slope gently away from the house, the pool, and any structures, so water runs off rather than pooling. In Reno's alkaline clay and rocky decomposed-granite soils, excavation often means breaking through a compacted layer or removing clay that does not drain. The grading should be checked with a level or a laser to confirm that water will flow in the right direction. This step is often skipped by installers working on a tight budget, and it is the root cause of most drainage failures.
Lay a weed barrier where appropriate. A permeable landscape fabric is sometimes laid over the excavated soil to prevent weeds from growing up through the base. This is most useful in yards with a history of weeds or in areas where the soil is rich. The fabric must be permeable, not a solid plastic sheet, so water can still drain downward. In some cases, a weed barrier is not necessary if the base material is deep enough and compacted firmly.
Install the free-draining base material. This is typically three to four inches of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or crushed base rock, depending on local availability and site conditions. The material should be angular and well-graded so it compacts and locks together. Avoid fine sand or clay-rich material that compacts into a hard pan and traps water. In Reno, decomposed granite and crushed base rock are the standard choices.
Compact the base in lifts. The base material is spread in two to three layers and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each layer. Proper compaction is essential. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating dips and hollows where water pools and odor builds up. Compaction also locks the base material together so it does not shift under foot traffic. A professional installer will run the compactor multiple times over each section until the base is solid and level.
For pet areas, patios, and play spaces, add a draining underlay or pad. This is an optional but recommended step that adds cushioning, improves drainage in high-traffic areas, and reduces odor buildup in pet turf. The underlay is laid over the compacted base before the turf goes down. It is not a substitute for proper base prep, but it enhances performance in areas that get heavy use.
On concrete, balconies, or other hard surfaces, use a draining underlay and edge drainage. Never glue artificial turf flat to a concrete slab or a roof without a draining layer underneath. Water will pool under the turf, the backing will rot, and odor will become a serious problem. A draining underlay with perimeter drainage channels allows water to flow away from the turf and off the surface. This is the only correct way to install turf on hard surfaces.
Base Prep on Reno Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Base preparation is where most artificial grass installations either succeed or fail. Reno's soils are alkaline clay and rocky decomposed granite, often with compacted layers or hardpan that do not drain naturally. Water that cannot move through the base will pool under the turf, cause odor problems, and eventually damage the backing. A proper base is excavated, graded, and compacted in lifts to create a stable, draining foundation.
Excavation and grading start with understanding the existing soil. In the Truckee Meadows, you are likely to encounter clay-heavy soils, rocky decomposed granite, or a combination of both. These soils compact naturally but do not drain well, especially if there is a compacted layer or hardpan underneath. Excavation removes the top layer of existing lawn or old turf, along with roots and debris, and often breaks through or removes the compacted layer so water can drain downward. The excavation depth is typically one to two inches below finished grade, but it may be deeper if the existing soil is very poor or if there is an impermeable layer that needs to be broken up. After excavation, the site is graded with a slight fall away from the house, the pool, and any structures. This fall ensures that water runs off the surface rather than pooling. Even a small slope, perhaps one quarter inch per foot, makes a significant difference over time.
Base material and compaction are the foundation of drainage. Once the site is graded, three to four inches of free-draining base material is spread over the excavated soil. In Reno, this is typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock, both of which are angular, lock together when compacted, and allow water to drain through. The base material is spread in two to three layers, and each layer is compacted firmly with a plate compactor. The compactor is run multiple times over each section until the material is solid and no longer shifts under foot. Proper compaction prevents the base from settling into dips and hollows later. It also locks the material together so water drains laterally as well as downward, reducing the chance that water will pool in low spots. An uncompacted base is one of the clearest signs of a shortcut installation. Within a few months, you will see dips in the turf surface, water pooling after rain, and odor problems in pet areas.
If your yard has a real water problem, drainage must be fixed first or the job is declined. Some properties have poor drainage due to the surrounding grade, underground springs, or a water table that is too high. In these cases, installing artificial turf without fixing the underlying drainage is a waste of time and money. If the site survey reveals a water problem that cannot be solved with proper base prep and grading, the honest answer is to address the drainage issue separately, perhaps with a French drain or a swale, before the turf goes in. We will walk away from a job if drainage cannot be fixed, because a turf installation on a wet site will fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is permeable, but only if the turf backing and base allow water to pass through. The turf itself has a drainage rate, usually measured in gallons per hour per square foot (gph/sf). A typical residential turf drains at 20 to 40 gph/sf, which sounds fast until you realize that a heavy downpour or a soaked pet area can overwhelm a slow-draining base. The backing of the turf determines how fast water passes through, and the base underneath determines how fast it moves away. Both matter equally.
Perforated backing versus fully permeable backing. Perforated backing has small holes punched through the material, which limits drainage to the rate at which water can flow through those holes. Fully permeable backing has no holes; instead, water flows through the backing material itself. Fully permeable backing drains faster and is less likely to clog over time, making it a better choice for pet areas, play spaces, and any yard where water management is a priority. The drainage rate should be specified in writing and tested or verified by the manufacturer. Do not rely on a verbal claim that the turf is "super draining" or "fast draining." Ask for the number in gallons per hour per square foot.
Pet areas and heavy downpours are the real test of drainage. In a residential yard with normal use, a moderately draining turf on a well-prepared base will perform adequately. But a dog area that gets soaked daily, or a yard that sits in a low spot and collects water during the monsoon season, demands fast-draining turf and a base that does not hold water. In these cases, a fully permeable backing and a coated infill such as zeolite or an antimicrobial product will make a real difference in odor control and durability. If you have pets or a drainage-prone yard, specify a fast-draining turf and ask for the drainage rate in writing.
Fast-draining turf still fails on a base that does not drain. This is a critical point. Even a premium, fully permeable turf will perform poorly if it is laid on a compacted, clay-heavy base or on a slab without an underlay. Water will pool under the turf, the backing will stay wet, and odor and mold will develop. The turf is only as good as the foundation beneath it. This is why base prep and grading are non-negotiable steps. A professional installer will not cut corners on base preparation, because they know that a poor base will cause the turf to fail and will result in complaints and callbacks.
Underlays and pads for hard surfaces. On concrete, balconies, patios, or rooftops, a draining underlay or pad is essential. These products are laid between the turf and the hard surface and allow water to flow away from the backing instead of pooling underneath. Common underlays include open-cell foam pads and perforated plastic drainage boards. The underlay should have a drainage rate that matches or exceeds the turf drainage rate, and it should slope toward a drainage edge or perimeter channel so water runs off the surface. Without an underlay, water will be trapped under the turf, and the backing will deteriorate rapidly.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details of a turf installation reveal whether the installer is a professional or is cutting corners. Seams, edges, and the final surface preparation determine how the turf looks, how long it lasts, and whether it stays in place. These are not small details; they are the difference between a turf installation that looks good and performs well for a decade and one that looks poor and fails within a few years.
Seams are joined with seam tape and adhesive. When two pieces of turf are laid side by side, the edges are overlapped slightly, and a specialized seam tape and adhesive are used to bond them together. The seam tape is applied to the backing of one piece, the two pieces are pressed together, and the adhesive cures to create a permanent bond. The grain of the turf (the direction the blades lean) must be aligned so the seam is not visible from a normal viewing angle. A visible seam, where the grain changes direction or where the two pieces do not match, is a sign that the installer did not take time to align the grain or did not use the correct adhesive. Good seams are nearly invisible; poor seams are obvious and detract from the appearance of the yard.
Nails and staples hold the turf in place around the perimeter. The edges of the turf are fastened to the ground with nails or staples spaced at regular intervals, typically every six to eight inches. The fasteners are driven through the backing into the base material or into a perimeter board. Spacing matters. Fasteners that are too far apart allow the turf to lift or shift in wind. Fasteners that are too close together are wasteful but do not harm performance. In Reno's afternoon wind, proper fastening is essential to keep the turf from moving or buckling.
Clean edges with bender board or a secured perimeter. The edges of the turf should be finished with a perimeter edge, typically a bender board or a metal or plastic edging material. The edging holds the infill in place, defines the boundary of the turf, and gives the installation a finished appearance. The edging is secured to the ground or to the base material with fasteners or adhesive. Without proper edging, infill will migrate away from the edges, the turf edge will curl or fray, and the installation will look unfinished.
Turf cut tight to pavers and cool decks. Where turf meets hardscape, such as a patio, pool deck, or pavers, the turf should be cut to fit tightly against the hard surface. There should be no gap where water can pool or where infill can escape. The turf is cut with a sharp utility knife, and the cut should be straight and clean. A tight fit also prevents people from tripping on the edge where turf meets pavers.
Power brooming spreads infill and stands the fibres upright. After the turf is laid and fastened, the entire surface is power broomed. A power broom is a machine with rotating bristles that brushes the turf surface, stands the fibres upright, and distributes the infill evenly across the surface. Power brooming also removes any adhesive residue and debris from the installation. A well-power-broomed turf looks lush and full; a turf that is not power broomed looks flat and matted. Power brooming is the final step that transforms a laid-down turf into a finished installation.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should have a written specification from the turf installer that details every material and every step of the installation. This specification protects you by creating a clear agreement about what will be done and what materials will be used. It also allows you to compare proposals from different installers on equal terms. A written spec is the hallmark of a professional turf installation company.
The spec should include the following: the turf product name and fiber type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type (perforated or fully permeable) and the drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the infill amount in pounds per square foot, the base material (decomposed granite, crushed base rock, or other), the base depth in inches, the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used and what type, the seam method and seam tape type, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off of old material, and the workmanship warranty period. If the job includes underlays, pads, or special drainage, those should be specified as well. For pet areas, play spaces, or pool surrounds, the spec should note any additional antimicrobial or cooling infill products being used.
This level of detail matters because it prevents misunderstandings and shortcuts. An installer who cannot or will not provide a written spec is not a professional. A written spec also gives you a document to refer to if something goes wrong. If the turf settles into dips after a few months, you can check the spec to see whether the base was supposed to be compacted and to what depth. If seams become visible, you can refer to the spec to confirm that seam tape and adhesive were supposed to be used. A warranty is only meaningful if you have a written record of what was promised.
When you are ready to move forward, call us for a free estimate. We will visit your site, assess the soil and drainage conditions, discuss your needs and your timeline, and provide you with a detailed written specification and a pricing breakdown. We are fully insured and we name the product, face weight, pile height, infill, and base depth in writing. If you have questions about any of the details in this guide, we are happy to walk you through them by phone at (775) 993-3807.